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A conversation with Kali
Hi Jessica! Here is your complete guide to the Lake District for you and Luna. Two days of the best dog friendly walks and restaurants in England.
Day 1 - Arrive and Explore
Morning: Catbells (6km circular, 2 hours). The walk that made the Lake District famous. You climb through bracken and wild grass to a ridge above Derwentwater, and from the top you can see the whole of Borrowdale stretching south into the mountains. Luna can run free on the ridge. No stiles, no gates, just open fell. Start at Hawse End car park, 10 minutes from your hotel. Bring water, there is none on the ridge.
Lunch: The Pheasant Inn, Bassenthwaite (20 min drive). A 17th century coaching inn on the lake. Two AA rosettes, 100+ single malts, dogs get treats and water bowls at the table. One of the most beautiful pub settings in England. 017687 76234
Afternoon: Derwentwater lakeside walk (flat, easy, as long as you like). Walk right out of Lodore Falls along the shore of Derwentwater. Still water, old oak woodland, mountains on every side. Victorian wooden launches run across the lake and dogs ride free, so if Luna's legs give out you can hop on a boat back to Keswick.
Day 2 - Buttermere and Home
Morning: Buttermere Circular (5 miles, 2 hours). Drive to Buttermere over the Honister Pass, one of the most spectacular mountain roads in England. The walk circles the entire lake on a flat shoreline path. Buttermere is smaller and quieter than Derwentwater, crystal clear water, towering fells on three sides, and hardly anyone there midweek. Dogs on leads, there are sheep on the fells. Wainwright loved this place so much he asked for his ashes to be scattered on the mountain above it.
Lunch: The Dog & Gun, Keswick (town centre). Dogs welcome in every room. Famous for their Hungarian goulash, served here for 60 years. Leave a coin on the fireplace for Keswick Mountain Rescue. 017687 73463
Getting There
London to Lodore Falls Hotel, Borrowdale: 290 miles, around 4.5 hours via the M6. Head north on the M1, join the M6 at Rugby, exit at Junction 40 (Penrith), then take the A66 west to Keswick. From Keswick, follow the B5289 south along Derwentwater. Lodore Falls is on your left after 3 miles. Stop at Tebay Services on the M6, it is the only motorway service station in England with its own farm shop, and dogs are welcome.
Getting Home
Keswick to London is the same route in reverse, 4.5 hours. Leave after lunch and you will be home by evening.
Have a wonderful trip, Jessica. Give Luna a belly rub from me!
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